The Bahamas tourism board, probably based in Florida, has
done a stellar job over the years. Bahamas has long been touted as the ultimate
sea, surf, and sun destination. And it may very well be that. Or parts of it
might be. It encompasses, after all, over 400 miles of nearly a thousand tiny
islands.
Back when our sailing dream was in the works, we talked of the
places we fantasized about visiting and Bahamas was right at the top of that
list. Once we moved aboard the boat and chatted with seasoned cruisers, the
dream only intensified. “The Bahamas is gorgeous!” they said. “Amazing. A must see.” “You will LOVE it!” and
so on… So, it has grown over the past 10
years into a mecca destination of sorts in our minds. The mighty and ethereal Bahamas.
We arrived yesterday, after some rough and some equally
blissful days on the journey from Puerto Rico.
Yippee! We’ve arrived! Only it wasn’t like that. At all.
Mayaguana – not a funny Spanish name for marijuana, but a 26
mile long, marsh-like, semi-inhabited outlet,
served as our port of entry. Wow. I should have read that one important caption
in our cruising guide that claims, had this island not been located where it
is, precisely between two other well traveled places, it would largely remain
unvisited.
And well, apart from the blue, blue waters out in Abraham’s
Bay, I’d have to agree.
My first impression of the Bahamas is of a dusty forgotten semblance
of a village, sewage seeping slowly along beside us, penetrating nostrils and
flipping stomachs, as we walked the lonely mile from the jetty into the unpaved
4 building main road. Our welcome at the government buildings, the remnants of
a national flag, long gone threadbare and faded by the sun, looked more like a
giant flapping spider’s web than a proud symbol of the country.
We stumbled into the tiny kiosk marked Post Office, dripping
with sweat and the town’s white dust clinging to us, it was difficult to adjust
our eyes. Inside, dark with 1970’s wood paneling and dim lighting, we were met
with a tinted glass wall of window, smudged with the fingerprints of the town’s
few, desperately sending out penned letters and awaiting money orders from
family abroad. The only new things, three proud male faces, framed and perched
way above our heads, peering down at us, the main government officials who no
doubt live elsewhere.
A voice mumbled from within, and we explained our mission.
Piles of books came through the tiny opening, all in triplicate, the government
paperwork. Our three boat crews, cramped and stifled in the depressing little
space, spilled out onto the road, while the few of us stayed to print all of
our details, over and over, along the narrow lip of a counter top. An hour
passed as papers were shoved, in and out through the tiny hole. A printer in
the back, chugged a painfully slow, clunk and shiver as it prepped our
documents, island time.
Eventually, in the midst of the molasses slow processes, the
official came out through the wooden door and stood among us. She held a paper.
It was dirty and creased and had signatures with amounts of money scrawled
down. She explained her daughter was headed to Atlanta, this was her first
journey, could we donate. And there it was. We pooled a few dollars despite our
surprise, and she took it gratefully, disappearing then, back into her grotto.
My eyes adjusted. The tinted glass began to reveal this, the
main and only government office on Mayaguana. One small room, dusty papers
piled high in every corner, mismatched desk and chair, lost under the weight of
a waste of unfiled documentation. Papers. Shelves overflowing with papers, some
on the floor, kicked aside and molded into the background, part of the dismal scene,
forever. Days and months of styrofoam coffee cups and soup bowls peered out,
partly lost under the grubby mounds.
Close to 2 hours passed before I saw daylight again, my
pocket $300 lighter, for having paid into this little hovel, our cruising
permit.
We went in search of bread, as cruisers do, having been far
from grocery stores for days. The town consisted of 4 dirt roads, about 20
structures (homes?), most in varying states of disrepair. Boards roughly nailed
where windows would be. Garbage, cans, bottles, diapers, and more paper lined
our pathway. We passed a few houses with hand painted ‘convenience store’
scrawled on the walls, but all were conveniently shut. The sun beat down, the
wind abandoned us in this place, a shiny, optimistic crowd of sailors, in a
sad, forsaken piece of land. We saw a few young men, sitting in a dilapidated
gazebo, their eyes tired, empty. They waved limply.
We finally found a friendly lady with a shop (the only other
person we actually saw), who opened it for us kindly, removing the padlock and
swinging aside the creaking door to reveal a rudimentary, dusty and windowless
chamber of largely empty wooden shelves.
She explained that the only supplies on the island came weekly on a mail boat.
Obviously it was close to the end of the week. Loaves of bread were roughly
shoved into a coke fridge, on the top shelf. Each was slightly frozen and
completely stale. We decided bread for toast would do and nodded that we’d take
it. $6.
$6 for stale bread?! How do the locals here afford that?
There is no industry, about 3 jobs, fishing…. Pretty much nothing. So the
answer is, they don’t. That’s why it was stale. Mayaguana is stale. The overwhelming
question sat on our shoulders as we kicked up dust and inhaled the sewage on
the way back to the jetty – why would anyone live here?
Apparently there are less than 300 people on the island,
divided into 3 settlements. Less than 75 in this place, though we never saw
more than 10. No goats or chickens or children playing in the road. Apparently there is a highschool which surprised me. If I was a
teenager I’d stow away on that mail boat and never look back.
My cruiser’s guide tells me that Mayaguana was once part of
the United States missile tracking network. The Americans built an 11,000 foot
long runway and a huge concrete dock – both are slowly decaying.
Apparently there are also 4 aircraft grounded here, seized
from drug runners. So maybe at one time Mayaguana was alive, with shady US
government projects and cocaine traffickers. But there is no sign of life here
anymore. Except for the garbage. Oh, and the sewage.
So, we’re heading onward and upward today. Away from this neglected outpost to the parts of the Bahamas that the brochures boast about.
But I will remember Mayaguana.
And just as I’m wondering whether this must be Bahamas’
dirty little secret or a glimpse of the reality behind the brochures, a huge
family of dolphins surrounds our flotilla and escorts us away, jumping and
diving and frolicking and begging us to keep judgements at bay.